Review 154: Appleton 12 (Rum)

Finally! I get around to reviewing some rum. Let's start things out with a big, characterful example. Appleton 12 year old ought to be perfect. Appleton is a Jamaican distiller. Different islands in the Caribbean and different countries in Central and South America all have reputations for different styles of rum. This is much like how people like to characterized scotch by its region, ie Speyside, Islay, Island, Highland, Lowland. Certainly, these generalizations are not always accurate, but ring true often enough. Jamaica's reputation is for producing very heavy, full flavored rums. The most full flavored of these are called high ester rums, which are produced in a very unique (and slightly yucky) fashion and also have an interesting history, tied with Germany and taxation, of all things. I suggest reading Dave Broom's excellent book "Rum" for greater detail!

Ok, this is getting long-winded, so I'll get to the point. Like most Canadian distilleries, rum distilleries produce a variety of "marks," or differently distilled styles of new-make. Most rums that are released are careful blends of these different makes, of different ages, from casks of different vivacity. The master blender uses all these differently tasting rums to make a consistent and tasty final product. Such is the case with Appleton 12, which I'm sure has some flavorful high ester rum in the mix!

Appleton 12

Color: Amber +3 (probably e150a)

ABV: 43%

Aroma Neat:
Rich/Syrupy Brown Sugar, Molasses, Mexican Dark Chocolate, Candied/Dried Cranberries, Browned/Fermented Apples, Fermented Tropical Fruit  (pineapple, mango, coconut), Woody Vanilla, Toasted Almonds, Buttery Toffee.

Rich and seductive. Also, notably sweeter than most malt whisky. Fortunately, the sweetness is quite dark and "authentic," not artificial or cloying. Really excellent.

Aroma Water:
Caramel/Burnt Sugar, Toasted Almonds in Honey, Fresh Vanilla (creamy), Juicy Coconut, Ground Coffee, Mexican Dark Chocolate, Tiger Balm/Menthol (slightly), Creme Brulee, Fermented Apples, Woody Toffee, Dried Cranberries.

A little bit lighter and fresher with some water.

Taste Neat:
Bitter Molasses, Tar (a little salty), Very Dark Honey/Buttery Toffee, Fermented Apples/Bananas, Dry/Seasoned Oak, Barrel Char (slightly ashy), Kola Nut/Coffee Beans (more kola).

Voluptuous and brooding, like the nose. A great balance of sweet, salt, bitter, and fruit. Very different from most whisky!

Taste Water:
Dry Oak (aged firewood), Syrupy Wood Sugars/Caramel, Ash/Barrel Char, Cola/Dark Chocolate, Mocha Coffee, Bitter Molasses/Marmite, Vanilla, Apples/Tinned Pears.

Not more cola/coffee character than neat and a bit less less fruit.

Finish:
Charred Oak, Fireplace Cinders, Syrupy Wood Sugars, Bitter Molasses/Salty Marmite.

Well matured, but 12 years goes a long way in the hot tropics. Quite heavy on wood influence, but it's a bitter molasses note that lasts the longest, which I assume is derived from the spirit itself. A drying finish is an enjoyable trait in my opinion, and this certainly has one.

Conclusion:
Excellent nose, which is alluringly different from most whisky.

Well composed and very full-bodied palate, which despite it's big character shows good balance.

An at least medium-duration finish, which is nicely drying and in good contrast to the darkly sweet palate.

Rating: 87/100

I think the notes speak for themselves. This a very excellent rum that can probably hold its own against most meals and cigars. Though the quality is such that I'll most often enjoy it in isolation!

There are a few more rums on deck!

Josh