Review 152: Jefferson Presidential Select 18

Sorry for the brief hiatus. Sometimes I like to take some time off to let the palate revitalize. Also, it's always a good idea to periodically go a few days or a week without drinking any alcohol. Anyway, today I'll do another bourbon review. This will be the last one for a little while, but it's an interesting one. I have a sample of Jefferson Presidential Select 18 year old. I'm pretty sure this was distilled at the presently-closed (but slated to reopen!) Stizel-Weller distillery. Like most Stitzel-Weller products, this is a wheated bourbon with no rye in the mash. Eighteen years is pretty old for a bourbon, which age quickly due to the hot climates they are usually matured in and storage in new, freshly charred oak barrels. Still, wheated bourbons have a reputation for handling age with grace, so let's hope that's the case!

Jefferson Presidential Select 18 

Color: Amber +2

ABV: 47%

Aroma Neat:
Buttery Sweet Corn, Honeyed Nougat, Toffee, Tannic Oak, Sweet Char, Molten Vanilla Bean,  Cooked Grains/Hot Mash, Stony, Junior Mints (chocolate/peppermint, very slightly), Chocolate-Covered Espresso Beans, Ash/Fireplace (slightly).

Initially unctuous seeming, but then very woody. I think I can even smell the tannins. Between honey/nougat sweetness and woodiness though, the nose seems a little closed. Water may help things out.

Aroma Water:
Buttery Corn, Nougat/Toffee, Chocolate Covered Raisins/Coffee Beans, Vanilla Fudge, Dried Crushed Mint (candy cane too, slightly), Cooked Grains/Sweetish Wort, Dried Fruits (figs, prunes, cranberries), Perfume, Charred Oak, Ash.

Definitely more open than neat and pretty complex too. It's still not that easy to find the subtler stuff, but there is a surprising amount of fruit in the background. There's a perfumey note that seems a little out of place. 

Taste Neat:
Rich Oak, Sappy/Wood Sugars, Structured and Robust Tannins, Root Beer/Coffee/Cola, Chocolate/Cocoa Powder, Boiled Fruits, Big Char, Dry Ash, Spicy Tobacco.

Yep, woody like the nose. I think here that woodiness works a little better, though. The tannins aren't overbearing or unpleasant, but rather give a grippy structure to the mouthfeel, not unlike a big California Cab.   Still, this is a little too woody for me to want to drink regularly.

Taste Water:
Wild Honey, Ashy Barrel Char, Robustly Tannic Oak, Nutty Nougat/Marzipan, Dark Tobacco, Bitter Grains, Bitter Spend Molasses/Rum.

Still pretty woody, but much ashier now as well. Challenging for a wheater, in my opinion. Not sweet and smooth as might be expected.

Finish:
Oxidized Chocolate, Mocha Coffee (with slight mint), Cola, Tannic Oak, Fireplace Ash,

Dry finish with lots of tannins and ash. Medium duration.

Conclusion:
Woody nose that is closed at first, but becomes much more interesting with water.

A challengingly dry and ash palate, especially for a wheated bourbon.

Chocolaty and tannin finish.

Rating: 83/100

I think this whisky was sadly bottled too late. It's got a lot of good qualities, but I feel the woodiness is way out of proportion and balance is lacking. It's still a good bourbon, but I'd rather have had it at 12 year old!

So, who's ready for St Patrick's Day? I have a special review tomorrow and you can probably guess what type of whisky it will be. After that... who knows? Maybe I'll finally do those rum reviews I've been threatening :-)

Josh