Review 149: W.L. Weller 12

Much like the renown Pappy Van Winkle, W.L. Weller is a wheated bourbon (except for the Pappy ryes which are out there). Referring to a bourbon as wheated generally implies that wheat has been used in place of rye in the mash bill. This is generally thought to produce an easier drinking bourbon, since wheat typically imparts a smooth, sweet character to whisky. Rye, on the other hand is more rambunctious and adds spiciness. Wheated bourbons are still bourbons, of course, so at least 51% of the mash bill must be comprised of corn. W.L. Weller is similar to Pappy in another way as well. Pappy and Weller were brands originally produced at the Stitzel-Weller Distilling Company, but are both are now owned and produced by Buffalo Trace. Well, they are owned by the Sazerac company, which encompasses buffalo trace. Ah, enough details - let's give this wheater a try!

W.L. Weller 12 

Color: Amber +2

ABV: 45%

Aroma Neat:
Fatty Corn, Rich Muscovado/Molasses, Tar/Extra Maduro Tobacco, Dark Chocolate Shavings, Mint (Junior Mints), Darkest Clover Honey,  Rich/Seasoned Oak (sweet and dry...), Butterscotch, Cooked/Puffed Cereal Grains (Honey Smacks).

Dark, sweet, and very gentle. Luckily, it's not boring thanks to some interesting mintiness and multilayered oak character. Seems to be very well matured, even though 12 years can sometimes produce overly woody bourbons. Then again, it's also commonly said that wheated bourbons handle age well.

Aroma Water:
Fatty Corn, Tar/Molasses, Burnt Vanilla, Fudge, Dutch Cocoa Powder/Chocolate Cookies, Dried Coconut, Marshmallow (slightly), Cooked Grains, Soda Bread (slightly), Italian Roast Coffee (sweet), Oaky Sawdust, Honeyed Barrel Char.

The dark sweetness eases up and reveals some of the lighter notes from the oak, like coconut and vanilla. I'm actually a bit surprised how much lighter this got. It's still very nice, but shows more of the qualities of a younger bourbon.

Taste Neat:
Caramelized Brown Sugar, Honey/Molasses, Gentle Sweet Oak/Syrupy Wood Sugars, Fudgy Brownies, Barrel Char, Cigar Ash (slightly).

Sweet, but in a natural and appropriately measured way. Definitely very smooth both in terms of flavor profile and mouthfeel. A great example of wheated bourbon as a style.

Taste Water:
Tar/Caramel, Muscovado Sugar, Rum Cake, Chocolaty Barrel Char, Vanilla, Pepper, Allspice, Butterscotch, Toasted Dry Oak.

Again, water lightens this up notably. Perhaps surprisingly, spice becomes apparent even though this is a wheated bourbon.

Finish:
Butterscotch (very buttery!), Shaved Chocolate (oxidized), Dark Roast Coffee, Brownies, Chewed-On Cigar, Steeped Black Tea Leaves, Black Pepper (slightly).

Decadent and desert-like after swallowing, but also somehow oxidized, like chocolate that's been out a while or spent tea leaves.

Conclusion:
Rich nose that is at it's most voluptuous neat.

Sweet and oaky/chocolaty palpate that picks up some spice with water.

Finish that seems sweet, but is really more roasty and dry.

Rating: 84/100

What a great return to American whisky after a long run of Scotch (not that I'm complaining)! It's just fun to change things up sometimes. It keeps you on your toes as a taster and who doesn't like new tipple-related experiences? Speaking of changing things up, be ready for a divergence from whisky a few reviews down the road. I'm going to heading (spiritually and spiritually) to the Caribbean and Central and South America to tackle some of the fine spirits they produce there. Hope that floats everybody's boat. There are a few more reviews to work through before this little feature, including a few more Americans and a multinational hybrid. Exciting stuff!

Josh