Review 136: Whisky Fair Clynelish 1989-2012

The Whisky Fair bottlings are released in conjunction with the famous annual Whisky Fair held in the German city of Limburg. Unfortunately, I've never been, but at least I can taste some of the whisky! I'm particularly excited about this bottle, which is a 23 year old Clynelish from 1989 filled from a an ex-bourbon hogshead. Should be good, may be great!

Whisky Fair Clynelish 1989-2012

Color: Amber -1

ABV: 51.5%

Aroma Neat:
Peat, Ashy Pepper, Honeydew Melon, Cantaloupe, Smoked French Vanilla, Freshly Split Oak, Starchy Dried Malt (husks and grist), Butterscotch/Burnt Sugar, Sourdough Crumb (slightly), Unfiltered Apple Juice (some cider), Fragrant Wood Smoke, Sappy Green Wood.

Ah, here is a more outspoken Clynelish with a lot of character. Much more notable peat than the previous expressions and also quite a lot fruitier. Lovely butterscotch and vanilla notes round things out.

Aroma Water:
Light Earthy Peat, Wild Honey, Honeydew Melon, Apple Juice/Blossoms, Beeswax, Lantern Oil (paraffin), Citronella Candles (slightly), Light Brown Sugar, Barley Sugar/Dried Malt Grist (a parallel!), Crushed Almonds, Green Wood/Sumac, Clove Oil.

Lighter and with greater florality and honeyed notes than neat. More modern Clynelish than before, but still more boisterous, and in this case I'd also say more complex, than the OB or the Adelphi expressions.

Taste Neat:
Dry Peat, Prickly Black Pepper, Fresh Oak, Light Caramel, Wooded Vanilla Bean, Sweet Wort, Bitter Malt, Apple, Mulling Spices (cinnamon, allspice), Wax (slightly paraffin).

Some sweet notes contrast with some slightly puckering barley and dried peat. Of course, there is also some trademark Clynelish waxiness, which emerges after a little while in the glass.

Taste Water:
Metallic/Mineralic Peat, Malt Barley Sugar/Grist (both again!), Stale Pepper, Papery Ash, Wood Sugar/Light Syrup, Flaking Barrel Char, Honeydew.

A bit more stripped down, as the nose was after dilution 

Finish:
Boiled Sweets, Stewed Apples, Paraffin Wax, Dried Metallic Peat, Bitter Barley (mildly), Boot Polish, Wood Smoke, Ashy Char, Caramel/Dark Honey, Honeydew.

Excellent and complex finish.

Conclusion:
Excellent nose with asserts itself initially with peat, pepper, and smoke. Fruit and butterscotch lay in wait.

Peaty and burnt palate, but still with Clynelish wax and complex malt character.

Stellar finish. One of the most complex I've experienced.

Rating: 92/100

I think a lot of time people can confused big flavors for complexity. This isn't a particular big whisky, but it certainly bolder than many other Clynelish expressions I've had. I happen to think this is more complex than the other Clynelish drams I've reviewed (a paltry two, I know). It's not more complex because it's bigger though. It just has more dimensions of flavor. So basically, it was really good whisky!

I kind of find this to strike a balance between more austere, mineralic, spirit driven "old style" whisky and more wood influenced "new style" whisky. It's a happy medium indeed.

Josh