Monday, February 4, 2013

Review 130: Cadenhead's Ardbeg 1993-2008

Ardbeg is usually a winning whisky, so I'm especially excited that this next sample I'm reviewing is a Cadenhead's bottling. That's a winning combination! This Ardbeg is 14 years old and is from a bourbon barrel. Should be a nice, straight forward Islay dram. Thanks to Claus for the sample!

Cadenhead's Ardbeg 1993-2008


Color: Amber -2

ABV: 46%

Aroma Neat:
Sharp Peat, Coal/Coal Smoke, Lemon Skin and Juice, Wood Smoke, Fresh Barrel Char, Fireplace Cinders, Mildew/Honey, Dried Seaweed/Iodine, Hot Steel, Spiced Apples, Black Pepper, Driftwood/Tide Pools, Paraffin Candles (lit).

Very citric and vibrantly peaty Ardbeg, which shows off the light spirit expertly. This seems very much like Caol Ila to me, although "louder" than most Caol's. Great nose. 

Aroma Water:
Mineralic Peat, Stale Ash, Driftwood Bonfires, Tar/Gun Oil, Cordite, Shellfish/Smoked Fish, Black Peppercorns in Lemon Juice, Weathered Oak, Lapsang Souchong, Salted Seaweed, TCP, Dried Malt Barley, Haylofts, Papaya/Honeydew (slightly). 

I feel like some of these notes are Islay cliches... It's what I'm sensing though, so maybe there is some merit to those cliches. Overall, more "combusted" with a teaspoon of water. 
 
Taste Neat:
Dried Peat, Thick Ash (drying), Heavy Barrel Char, Dry Malt Barley, Pepper, Lemon Juice, Bitter/Sour Oak, Paraffin, Musty Books, Wax. 

Direct whisky, that riffs and improvises on a few key notes. Expressive and easy to describe, though perhaps challenging for those who don't like peat neat (ie not diminished by age or sherry/wine influence). 

Taste Water:
Mineralic Peat, Ashy Barrel Char, Bitter Malt, Honeydew Melon, Soft Wax, Lemon Pepper, Sea Salt, Iodine

A surprising dash of tropical fruit adds new dimension to an otherwise austere (and I mean that in a very positive way) whisky. 

Finish:
Ash, Barrel Char, Peat Smoke, Iodine, Salty Brine, Dry Malt, Paraffin. 

Pungent and powerful finish of medium duration. Lots of paraffin and iodine might scare some away!

Conclusion:
Open and evocative nose that is pure Islay testosterone. 

Mineral and dryly peaty palate with plenty of notable malt character. Weather-beaten, but with surprises. 

Intense finish that's not for those afraid of flavor!
   
Rating: 88/100 

A very masculine, bourbon-matured Ardbeg that typifies Islay. There are more citric notes and iodine than I'm used to in Ardbeg, so I'm getting flashes of Caol Ila and Laphroaig as I sip and smell. Really good whisky. 

Next up, another Ardbeg. Though this time it will be a discontinued distillery bottling. 

Josh

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