Friday, January 16, 2015

Review 202: Laphroaig 18

I usually don't purchase many older distillery bottlings, because the value-to-price ratio really seems to dip 15+ year old releases. Independent bottlers are usually a much better and more interesting choice, at least in my experience. Independents more frequently offer cask strength a colorant-free releases than distillery releases as well. This Laphroaig distillery bottling, however, caught my eye. To start, it's 18 years old and only costs around 80 USD. That's pretty good! Also, the strength is 48% and it's not chill-filtered either. Wow! On top of all that, it's usually pretty tough to find an independently bottled Laphroaig that is reasonably priced. Gotta take my hat off to Laphroaig for this one. It's in Glenlivet Naudrra level of value for money. If it's good of course...

Laphroaig 18


Color: Amber +0


ABV: 48%

Aroma Neat:
Iodine, Soft and Sweet Peat, Apple Juice, Sea Salt, Cured/Smoked Meats and Fish, Fresh Ash, Coal Dust, Barley Water, Custard, Aged Vanilla Bean, Nutty Coconut Flesh, Gas (back when you were little), Raisins, Chocolate Candied Oranges.    

Ash can often be bitter and unpleasant in whisky, but here it is soft, gentle, and just really delicious. Hints of American and ex-sherry oak are present, as well as medicinal peat and some grain and fruit from the spirit itself. A very complete scotch, this (well, the nose at least!).

Aroma with Water:
Delicate Peat, Mild Honey, Vanilla, Buttered Toffee Brown Rice, Savory Soy Sauce, Cocoa Butter, Briney Lemons, Pickle Juice (slightly, see Airigh Nam Beist), Caramelized Brown Sugar, Tame White Pepper, Capsaicin (slightly), Wood Sugars/Charred Oak, Marshmallows, Prunes (slightly), Coffee.

Much less intense with water. The peat, smoke, and char recede and lighter sweeter notes from the malt come through. Peat freaks need not apply. With water peat is a supporting and capable character actor, but not a dominant lead. Just buy the Quarter Cask if you need to mainline peat :-)

Taste Neat:
Fresh Ash, Sweet Charcoal, Lively Oak (seasoned, crisply tannic), Salty Peat Smoke, Used Motor Oil, Gasoline, Seaweed/Iodine, Vanilla, Well-Aged Balsamic (slightly, touch of sulfur), Raisins, Dates, Brown Sugar. 

Oily, smoky, earthy. Welcome to Islay! 

Taste with Water:
Crackling Black Pepper, Mineral Peat, Sea Salt, Motor Oil, Gas (slightly), Gun Powder (and solvent), Apple Juice/Apple Wood Smoke, Smoked Paprika, Spicy Peppers (cayanne poweder, lots of BBQ spices), Plum Sauce/Soy.

Oh boy, water tamed the nose of this whisky, but it was all a trick! The palate is absolutely alive now with prickling spice and burning warships at sea (obviously spice trading ships attacked by pirates).


Finish:
Warming Peat Smoke, Charcoal, Seasoned Oak/Resin, Barley Bitterness, Soy Sauce, Cola/Coffee.

Scotchy finish that is warming and comforting. Oak and barley add a mildly drying bitterness that begs another sip be taken. Watch yourself!

Conclusion:
Very complete whisky, with peat, sherry, and bourbon-oak influence. Amidst all that, the whisky itself is not lost.

Dynamic. Wonderful with or without the addition of water. Develops well over time and on the palate. Very complex with a great, oily mouthfeel.

Quality finish, that is slightly shorter than it ought to be (a minor point!).

Rating: 90/100

This is Laphroaig bottled at the perfect age. The peat is still aggressive and forceful neat, but turns into something complex and delicate with a touch of water. A peaty whisky for the thinking man! Ok, now I'm getting ridiculous, better sum up... Laphroaig 18 is an excellent whisky, well presented, at a fair price. Unless you hate peat, it is a clear choice for your upper shelf.

Laphroaig 10
Laphroaig Quarter Cask
Laphroaig Cairdeas Origin 2012
Laphroaig 20 (SMWS 29.99)


Josh

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