Saturday, February 2, 2013

Review 127: Johnnie Walker Blue Label

Well, we finally made it. I've reviewed Red Label, Black Label, Green Label (a while ago), and Gold Label. The big bad Blue Label review is upon us. Perhaps the ultimate in aspirational scotch whisky to the causal or uninitiated drinker, while simultaneously drawing scorn from many "serious" drinkers. Is it even good whisky? Is it worth the price? Let's see...

Johnnie Walker Blue Label


Color: Amber +0

ABV: 40%

Aroma Neat:
Soft Peat, French Vanilla/Toasted Marshmallows, Musty/Ruddy Honey, Warm Oak (freshly hewn), Soft Cinnamon, Cocoa/Milk Chocolate (slightly), Musty Leather, Cooked Bananas, Metallic Grains/Cold Porridge, Char/Wood Smoke (slightly).

Quite quiet, but eminently gentle and well balanced. A polite nose, if the ever was one.

Aroma Water:
Mineralic Peat, Wax, Soft Honey, Musty Leather, Brown Sugar Syrup (not sweet), Dry Malted Barley/Cocoa (malted milk), Fresh Bread Crumb, Copper/Tin, Stale Pepper, Oak.  

Much waxier now and "old school," not just in the sense of age but of the entire profile. It's now a waxy and metallic affair that I think is quite good.

Taste Neat:
Soft Peat, Dry Honey, Mineral Water, Metallic Tang, Vanilla, Cocoa, Bready Grains, Sweetish Char, Gentle Oak, Apples/Lemon (slightly).

The palate is balanced, safe, and maybe even predictable. It's very well done, though and pleasingly understated. Even though this has a very rounded delivery, I think I can make out Talisker.

Taste Water:
Honey, Soft Oak, Peat, Light Caramel, Vanilla, Old Black Pepper, Chocolate Bars/Cocoa, Malted Barley/Milk, Metallic/Mineralic.

A tad thin, unfortunately. This is still interesting whisky, but since it was rather delicate to start at 40% ABV, water takes a lot out of it. If it were a little stronger I think this would be excellent.  

Finish:
Metallic/Mineral, Oak in Dry Honey, Drying Tannins (gentle), Dry Peat.

Medium duration finish, which is a representative summary of the entire dram. Not particularly excellent, but pleasing.

Conclusion:
Rounded nose which has an old school flair.

Gentle, inviting palate that is best left neat.

Quality finish, which isn't amazing, but isn't a disappointment either.

Rating: 85/100

This is the most impressed  I've been with Blue Label. On previous tastings, it was a lower 80's dram. Maybe it's because I'm tasting this from a fresh bottle that's been taken care of, or maybe this is a particularly good batch. One way or another, I was impressed with this whisky. It's not a bodacious, over-the-top whisky that peat freaks and sherry heads will latch onto, but it is a very well conceived whisky that's been expertly blended. It's gentle and accessible, which isn't for everyone. It is for many, though, which explains the popularity. I'd just love to see it at 46%.

Josh

2 comments:

  1. Exactly! For the money they should bottle it at 46% or at least 43%. 40% is like a slap in the face for that kind of money. That said, I'd bet they put some lovely casks into this thing. Diageo is still sitting on mammoth reserves of "glut" whisky - maturing to great age in their enormous network of warehouses...

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Price aside, it's a slap in the face of all the lovely old whisky diluted down to that strength! So much nuance lost...

      Delete